Recently, I was asked to provide wine suggestions for an article on Valentine’s Day pairings. I had a few ideas. I suggested all of them with some very mildly clever but especially corny words so I figured why not share them all here? For the article, I focused mostly on a few Sherry selections, and then revised them based on what was available to folks to buy without too much difficulty. This column however, highlights a bit of both hard to find and not so hard to find. Let’s get cheesy y’all!
Ruth Lewandowski’s Tatto, 2019
The Romantic Fantasy, because let’s face it, this wine is sold out everywhere and real hard to get. It’s a naturally made mix of non-pretention and unavailability…the classic “diamond” in the rough or at the ball, whose presence is fleeting, friendly and oh so fall-in-love-at-first-sightable. The orange day-glo quality comes from the skin-contact maceration of Friulano, Riesling & Muscat.
On this day we played
Flowers in sunshine singing
Every whim and smile
The category of Madeira is profoundly poetic. If you’ve never tried any, a good Rainwater is an easy introduction. I drink them as is, over ice with an orange peel or mixed in cocktails. The Rainwater category is generally the least expensive of the lot which unfortunately can mean there are a few out there that aren’t that great. Broadbent has become my go-to, currently. But Blandy’s and Henriques & Henriques made good ones as well. And of course the Baltimore Rainwater from the Rare Wine Co. is delectable.
My favorite story about the name, as referenced by Noel Cossart in his book, “Madeira: The Island Vineyard” tells of a barrel of Madeira left on a beach while awaiting shipment to the American colonies. The barrel somehow loses its closure, and is watered down by rain, which creates a slightly more refreshing style. Rainwater Madeira was at its most popular at the start of the 20th Century. Although a 1900 auction held in New York listed no Rainwaters, it led folks to believe that the locals at the port of call, Baltimore, were hoarding the national supply.
ahem…
The longing for a lost love that never dies, an idea that spins tales and inspires sorrow, tears but also undying allegiance. Meet Broadbent’s Rainwater Madeira. They’re hard to get out of your mind with their long finish as well as their ability to basically not go bad. They’re like the captured memory of heart’s perfection that you will only ever replay over and over in your mind, each a whisper growing in legend and heartache. They also mix beautifully as a substitute for Dry Vermouth in your Martini riffs. Cherish them always.
My Rainwater tears
You shall never see falling
Eyes bright, heart secure
Famille Dutraive, Clos du Chapitre Saint-Amour, Beaujolais, 2017
“Famile Dutraive is a project that was born in 2016 when frost and hail combined to destroy 90% of Jean-Louis’ crop. Faced with the dilemma that all three of his children planned on joining him on the farm, Jean-Louis decided to start Famile Dutraive, a négociant project that purchases certified organic fruit around Beaujolais as a buffer in years with extreme weather. St-Amour, located in the far north of Beaujolais, has more limestone in the soil, lending the wines lift and freshness.”
An ode to thy Robin Hood bycocket wearing and singing dashed devil in sheep’s clothing…and yes I just google searched bycocket just to get the exact right imagery for this post. Your ballads are cherry sweet, your touch is velvet among a bed of violets. Your charm is worth an entire court as you give them what they desire. You pivoted from landowning gentry to wilderness huntsman Good Samaritan. And you know who else is a skilled archer? Cupid. Here’s to you.
Roses may be red
Without thorns, I promise you
Your smile may be true
VORS Bodegas Poniente El Ajibe Oloroso
This project is fairly new and the team behind it own the import company which is based in New York, Ole & Obrigado. I was gifted a bottle early on in the pandemic and it haunts my palate to this day. The wine used to refresh the 5th criadera is sourced from an organically produced estate in the Pago de Anina. The median age of the wine is 30 years making it a V.O.R.S. Poniente is the name given to the westerly humid winds that are born from the Atlantic Ocean and cool the vineyards in the evenings. Also of note, this bodega is surrounded by the vineyards that it comes from, which is not common and rather adds to its unique sense of place.
You are the nightcap of my maritime dreams with your oily rich volatile attributes sending me on an adventure with each long sip. Your oxidative grip is comforting and feels like forever come and gone has landed so nicely in my glass.
A captain sets sail
Time loses meaning, whispers
West winds brought you home